Thursday, June 18, 2015

"A cry of despair and a warning to humanity..."




     I have to say that I have been putting off writing a blog post about our trip to Auschwitz. When something affects you so profoundly like that place did me, it's hard to put into words, but finally, I am going to try. 



     One of my favorite aspects of this whole experience was the WWII intensive lectures and field trips and learning opportunities. Almost every place we went, Martin and Jan would take us to the Jewish ghettos, or the monument that town had for the WWII victims, and on my trips outside of school I would try to actively seek them out on my own. We learned so much about that period of history and the people that were affected by it that I thought I was well equipped with the knowledge to prepare me for what I would soon see at Auschwitz and Birkenau. Unfortunately, I don't think anything could have prepared me.



     We started the tour at the infamous "Arbeit Macht Freight" (work sets you free) gates at the start of Auschwitz, which was used as the work camp. This was the portion used today to house the museum and replicated in some parts to show what life would have been like if you were unlucky enough to find yourself a prisoner in the camp. We started by walking through this one building with this pedestal with a see through urn on it. The urn was full of human ashes of multiple people, and we were told by the tour guide that it was indeed here while the camp was in operation and it was used as almost a trophy. We then wound our way through multiple buildings showing huge exhibits of just a small portion of victims' belongings. There was one of prosthetics and crutches, one of luggage with everyone's names and ages on it, one of the cans used for the gas chambers, one of shoes, one specifically for just baby and children's shoes, and one of the most disturbing; one full of human hair. The numbers behind this one was even more disturbing.. The case held one ton of human hair. To make one ton, about 40,000 women's heads had to be shaved. When Auschwitz was liberated, they found another seven tons of hair, with records of multiple other shipments around Europe. They found they were actually selling it to textile factories and it was being used to make blankets, shirts, socks, rugs, etc. The next rooms were those of the prison cells. This was one of the worst places in the whole camp, and was actually dubbed the "block of death" and was literally a prison inside of a prison. There were multiple types of cells that a prisoner could be put in, depending on the level of their disobedience. There were the normal cells, then the starvation cells, where prisoners were left to just starve to death in, then the suffocation cells where a group of people were left in a windowless cell where they would all eventually run out of air and suffocate. Then the standing cells where five people were placed together in what looked like maybe a 2 or 3 square foot cell and left there for days at a time, unable to sit or move around or have a place to relieve themselves. If you happened to survive a night in any of these, you were then expected to go out a work a full 12 hour day, then be put back in the cell for the night. Another of the buildings was used as a trial building where the prisoners cases would be decided (usually never in their favor) and then executed out back. The execution wall was literally just that. They would make the prisoners line up and go down the line and shoot them in the back of the head. Sometimes if the baby or child was small enough, they would just bash their head against the wall to save a bullet. Inside this building are the faces that have haunted me since I've left. The Nazi officers took very good records of all the inmates, and one portion of those records was a picture. Those pictures lined the hallways of this building, after being shaved and all in their striped pajamas. This was after it was vey clear what their fate would be, and the fear in every single one of their eyes is so palpable, you could almost feel it. I could not even fathom what these people went through. If the Nazis were anything though, they were efficient. This whole place was a well oiled machine, and it was when they figured out that Auschwitz wasn't able to kill in masses and properly dispose of them fast enough that they created Birkenau.



     If Auschwitz is hell, then there isn't a word for Birkenau. This is where the real horror happened. This is where nobody walks out alive. This is where towards the end, the selections took place, and you would stand in front of an officer and if he pointed one direction, you would live a little longer, but if he pointed the other way you wouldn't see the end of the day. This is where children were separated from parents, and families never saw each other again. This is where people died by the thousands in gas chambers per day, and were disposed of and erased from this earth just as quickly. This is where our tour guide told us what the piles of bodies looked like after the gas chambers, with the weakest and children trampled and crushed on the bottom, while the strongest were on top with their faces pressed against the hole trying to get one last desperate breath for life. This is where people lost their humanity, and would do anything to try to stay alive just a little longer. There are not words to describe what I was thinking while I was walking through that killing camp, but the memorial at the end sums up the message that it should be sending: "Forever let this place be a cry of despair and a warning to humanity where the Nazis murdered about one and a half million men, women, and children, mainly Jews from various countries of Europe." This message was written on a plaque in every language that was a tongue of any of the victims murdered in these two camps. I think this experience is one that everyone needs in their life, to really see what monstrosities people in this world are capable of. It is not one I ever want to do again, and frankly it still makes me sick to even think about it, but it is a lesson that is heard loud and clear by anyone who has the opportunity to go to this place.


Monday, June 15, 2015

A bit of nostalgia..

     Bonjour from Paris! Being able to travel is one of the most liberating and exciting things to do in this great big world of ours, and one of the most exciting parts is staying in hostels! As I have said many times before, one of my favorite things about hostels is the opportunity to get to meet so many people! This past week or so, I have done just that, and it has been making me very nostalgic about the week and a half I spent at hostels during my spring break. Then I realized I never wrote anything about that time like I meant to! So here we go, the middle of April, somewhere in Europe...
     Well, it started in Vienna, Austria to be exact. Our eventful two weeks began with the school group taking a bus to Vienna, where we went to the palace, and saw the Crown Jewels, and the National history museum, and a fancy white horse show! Unfortunately, im not going to expand too terribly much, because honestly, it just was not my favorite! A lot of people I talk to say they adored Vienna, but through my travels I have learned that even though you go in really wanting to love a city, sometimes you just don't feel the magic. Maybe it was the weather, or bad restaurant choices, or random rude encounters, but anyway the magic just was not there for me in Vienna.
     Next stop though, was Venice, Italy! We were still on the school bus, and I have to say that the drive from Vienna to Venice was one of the most beautiful ones I probably will ever take! The mountains were spectacular! By the time we actually arrived in Venice, I was already blown away. We then had to take a train (over water!!!) from the main land to the island, and then we were in the beautiful heart of Venice. It is famous for a reason. The water was beautiful, the sunsets are beautiful, the buildings are beautiful, the square was beautiful, the boats were beautiful, and the people were nice. And beautiful. Also, the whole "getting lost in Venice" myth is completely and utterly real. I usually am pretty fair at finding my way around new cities, but this one was hopeless! Even with a map, or the GPS on any of our phones! At least it's an island and at some point, you hit water and you know to start over. We went on our normal cathedral/castle/museum/treasury/Jewish quarter educational excursion, and at the end we all stood there and kind of looked at each other, and Martin says, "Well, you're free to go! See you in Olomouc next Monday!" And that was it! We were on our own for many of our first real small group independent travel, and some of the best couple weeks of my adventure to date!
     From Venice, three other people and I took a boat to the airport, which was a first, and flew to Naples, Italy. We arrive at this huge, dirty city, and we weren't sure what to think. Then we get out of the dirty old subway, and we are even more unsure. Then we walk down this dodgy little alley to our hostel, and we all want to turn around. Then we haul our luggage up five flights of stairs (I think Lauren was almost crying at this point) and into what seems to be someone's apartment, and I think we all were so confused and disappointed with what we had seen so far, we didn't even know what to do! Then this little older man comes out, introduces himself as Giovanni, and hands us all a big glass of water for the walk up, and tells us to all have a seat. All of our worries quickly turned to excitement as this man starts to lay out all of the many many options this town that he loves has to offer, and we choose our itinerary for what we quickly realize is going to be a much too short stay of only four days. This talk lasted about a half hour, and it looked like it was straight out of a movie, he would reach down for a book and turn straight to the page he wanted and point to the word before the book was even opened all the way, then reach behind him and grab a map, then push up his glasses, then go to google earth on the computer and zoom exactly from one place to another all around the city, explaining how it was built, and the real beauty of it once you know how to look for it. The he would take our passports, told me I had a bit of an Eastern European face, saw "Vlach" as one of my names, then "of course your Czech, I should have known that!" And do the same for the other three.... All I could think was that this man was amazing. Then we put our bags in our assigned room, and walk out to a homemade meal of Italian gnocchi in his special red sauce, and I think I could have cried. Then we met our other roommates, a French Canadian named Charles, and a girl from Mexico who had been studying in France for 8 months named Paula. We hit it off so well, that we all spent the rest of our time in Naples doing everything together, and it was with this group that we explored this town that I am now completely in love with, even though it is very rough around the edges. With these people that we and explored the roman ruins and the whole underground city beneath it, climbed to the top of Mount Vesuvious, and even Pompeii was made an absolute blast (which I realize is pretty morbid, because so many people died there, and I am very aware of that and understand the severity, but really I think I laughed more in that ancient city than I have anywhere in the world.. Oops). Looking back, I know it was this hostel that made all the difference. When I talk about a city having magic, I think of this one, and it breaks my heart to think of the things we would have missed out on had we not stayed at Giovanni's, and meet the people that we did!
     We then said our tearful goodbyes, and boarded the plane to Barcelona, Spain. This town was amazingly beautiful also, but I wish I could have taken it a different time, because everything for a while kind of paled in comparison after Naples. Besides that though, this mosaic covered town was amazing. With a hostel just a couple blocks from the beach, and Charlie (the French Canadian we met in Naples!) actually joining us from Rome, It was quite the experience also!! We were a bit worn out from sight seeing, so this town mainly consisted of the white sandy beaches, and the famous nightlife. I did enjoy the chance to brush up on my Spanish though! By the time Monday rolled around, I caught myself thinking, "I'm ready to go home and sleep in my own bed.." But then I though it was funny, because I realized "home" was Olomouc, and "my own bed" was the three-inch thick mattress I was used to sleeping on, and I got a good chuckle out of it. It didn't stop me from doing the ole' drop my bags and flop on the bed when I got back though!
     Really, moral of this story: I love hostels!!! There is a difference between hostels and hotels, the S! S stands for social, and that is the best thing about them. I learned that last night. In a hostel!!! 😁